[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":218},["ShallowReactive",2],{"misc-manifest-en":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"description":196,"extension":197,"meta":198,"navigation":199,"path":200,"seo":201,"stem":202,"toc":203,"__hash__":217},"miscEn\u002Fen\u002Fmisc\u002Fmanifest.md","Small Climbing Manifesto Tatra33",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":190},"minimark",[9,21,44,57,67,80,102,121,131,147,160,170,180],[10,11,13,17],"route-section",{"id":12},"element1",[14,15,5],"h3",{"id":16},"small-climbing-manifesto-tatra33",[18,19,20],"p",{},"Here is the updated version of the Small Climbing Manifesto Tatra33. The original was first published in 2021 on the occasion of the centenary of JAMES. This revised text reflects the experience we have gained over twelve years of building our routes.",[10,22,24,29,32,35,38,41],{"id":23},"element2",[25,26,28],"h4",{"id":27},"_1-shorter-pitches","1. Shorter pitches",[18,30,31],{},"Most pitches on our routes allow a rappel of up to 30 metres. This rule has its exceptions, especially on traverses and diagonal pitches.",[18,33,34],{},"Shorter pitches make it easier to find your way on the wall and lower the risk of going astray. Climbers can see and hear each other better. Belaying a shorter pitch usually takes less gear, rope drag and friction are lower, and movement on the wall is freer.",[18,36,37],{},"If you know the terrain, a rappel of up to 30 metres creates very good conditions for a safe emergency descent even with a single 60-metre rope. It also lowers the risk of the rope getting stuck, of missing an intermediate anchor, or of knocking loose rocks down with the rope.",[18,39,40],{},"Lighter gear demands can lower the financial cost of climbing and make it more accessible.",[18,42,43],{},"For those who want to spend more time on our routes, we recommend a light 40-metre rope combined with a cord of the same length. This setup reduces the weight of your gear and makes moving around in alpine terrain easier.",[10,45,47,51,54],{"id":46},"element3",[25,48,50],{"id":49},"_2-reliable-protection","2. Reliable protection",[18,52,53],{},"Since 2025 we have been installing titanium protection with UIAA certification instead of stainless steel. At present we also use expansion anchors. We choose the specific type of protection to suit the conditions on site and the requirements for safety and durability.",[18,55,56],{},"At the beginning of the twentieth century our predecessors installed rings and cramps by leading them into molten lead. Many of these anchors are still in service today. We approach protection with the same thoroughness in the twenty-first century.",[10,58,60,64],{"id":59},"element4",[25,61,63],{"id":62},"_3-quality-rock","3. Quality rock",[18,65,66],{},"Our aim is for our routes to follow solid, good-quality rock. But they are in a high-mountain environment, where pitches and elevation gains are big and the weather is extreme. What holds today may not hold tomorrow. Even a route that mostly follows solid rock can have broken sections.",[10,68,70,74,77],{"id":69},"element5",[25,71,73],{"id":72},"_4-responsible-placement-of-protection","4. Responsible placement of protection",[18,75,76],{},"A climber on grade IV+ can be touching the limit of their abilities just as much as a climber on grade XI+. Whether a certain spot on a route is easy is therefore relative. On its own, that is no reason to leave out intermediate protection. A route usually brings the most joy when it gives us the right tremble. We want to stay in touch with the limit of our personal abilities. That is why we place intermediate protection before climbing into a difficult spot. Even a shorter climber should be able to reach a bolt and be in the most stable position possible when clipping it. This applies especially to routes meant for partner pairs or children.",[18,78,79],{},"Bolts can also serve as a guide or as encouragement. In special cases they can therefore be justified even where there is an excellent crack alongside for placing your own protection. Our goal is to place as little \"iron\" in the wall as possible, but only on condition that it does not violate the other principles of this manifesto.",[10,81,83,87,90,93,96,99],{"id":82},"element6",[25,84,86],{"id":85},"_5-respect-for-tradition-and-climbing-ethics","5. Respect for tradition and climbing ethics",[18,88,89],{},"Future generations should also have the chance to climb big Tatra walls that have no bolts at all. This experience, and the adventure that comes with it, is irreplaceable.",[18,91,92],{},"Re-equipping old classic routes demands great respect for the first ascensionists. How a route whose authors are no longer alive should be re-equipped must be decided by a committee that includes climbers with experience in re-equipping routes and in training beginners, as well as climbers who respect traditionalist principles. Such a decision must not be left to an individual. If the committee does not keep this principle of diversity of opinion, it loses its purpose.",[18,94,95],{},"First ascents in the Tatras are done \"from the ground up\". That is how we create our routes too. When placing protection, however, safety and environmental criteria come first. That is why it is possible to use a rope \"from above\" when placing protection and preparing a route.",[18,97,98],{},"This manifesto is not concerned with re-equipping classic routes, but above all with creating new ones. Our routes in the Tatras are not meant to replace the old classics. On the contrary, they are meant to bring the classics closer to today's young generation of climbers. A climber who starts on routes with an accurate topo and bolts gains experience that will later help on routes where they must rely on their own protection alone. The density of the protection we place varies. A large number of our pitches have no permanent intermediate protection at all. The way we create our routes today does not mean abandoning ethical or environmental principles. New routes appear in the Tatras every year, most often bolted. The Ta33 Manifesto unites our principles and brings them closer to the climbing public.",[18,100,101],{},"Even thirty-three new routes will be just a drop in the ocean. There are thousands of routes in the Tatras. But anyone who cooks knows that even a drop of the right ingredient can noticeably brighten a classic recipe.",[10,103,105,109,112,115,118],{"id":104},"element7",[25,106,108],{"id":107},"_6-precise-and-accessible-route-description","6. Precise and accessible route description",[18,110,111],{},"The mountains are a temple that should be open to everyone who humbly respects its laws. Knowing the necessary information about a route is one of the most important prerequisites for climbing it safely. Many tragedies are connected with losing one's way, often caused by incorrect or insufficient information. We therefore give the description and diagram of a route, and their availability, the same attention as the work on the wall itself.",[18,113,114],{},"We do not neglect landmarks in the terrain either. Cairns built in the right place can decide between life and death. That is why they guard all the routes we \"open\".",[18,116,117],{},"Our cairns have their own marking system. A quartz stone on top marks the direction of travel. One quartz stone confirms the direction, two quartz stones mean a change of direction. Rounded stones from streams mark the descent – after all, water always flows downhill. A single quartz stone placed on a boulder or a rock ledge can also serve as a landmark. If it is key, we sometimes glue it down with a bio-adhesive.",[18,119,120],{},"We have noticed that cairns are multiplying and living a life of their own. We are glad. But do not build them if you are not completely sure of the right place! On the contrary, destroying a functional cairn is, in our eyes, an act on a par with poisoning a well. We add quartz stones to cairns in the terrain gradually. If you find a nice quartz stone, you can help us with it.",[10,122,124,128],{"id":123},"element8",[25,125,127],{"id":126},"_7-responsible-grading","7. Responsible grading",[18,129,130],{},"Underrating the difficulty of a route can have fatal consequences. Overrating it, in turn, can take its toll when a climber, wrongly convinced of their abilities, later runs into the real value of the grade in question.",[10,132,134,138,141,144],{"id":133},"element9",[25,135,137],{"id":136},"_8-protecting-nature","8. Protecting nature",[18,139,140],{},"Driving pitons in and out was a basic skill of a climber. On frequently climbed routes, however, using the piton technique can be contentious. That is why none of our routes needs a hammer or pitons. Carabiners, slings and cams are enough.",[18,142,143],{},"Rappelling on frequently climbed routes should not require leaving any material in the wall. That is why all our belays are equipped with a ring.",[18,145,146],{},"We always judge the creation of our routes very sensitively from the point of view of protecting the environment too.",[10,148,150,154,157],{"id":149},"element10",[25,151,153],{"id":152},"_9-the-beauty-of-the-old-six-grade-scale","9. The beauty of the old six-grade scale",[18,155,156],{},"For half a century a closed six-grade scale was used in climbing. Although its closed nature has been overcome, the range of difficulty it covered still best matches the abilities of most climbers in the high mountains. That is exactly why all our routes stay within this range of difficulty.",[18,158,159],{},"At the same time we are aware that the demands of a big-mountain route are not determined by the climbing alone. The time the route takes, the descent, escape options, orientation, total elevation gain, remoteness of the terrain, mental demands, weather conditions and many other factors all play an important part. In these areas too we try to offer as much variety as possible when creating our routes, so that climbers can progress from easier routes to harder ones.",[10,161,163,167],{"id":162},"element11",[25,164,166],{"id":165},"_10-climbing-in-vibrams","10. Climbing in \"Vibrams\"",[18,168,169],{},"With the arrival of climbing shoes, the ability to climb in \"Vibrams\" was somewhat forgotten. We love climbing shoes, but sometimes we also want to have fun in more comfortable boots. Developing this skill is also important for those who want to progress in climbing to higher altitudes. Climbing shoes are not worn on many of the classic routes, but you definitely need to know how to climb there. That is why all our \"grade threes\" are ideal for climbing in \"approach shoes\".",[10,171,173,177],{"id":172},"element12",[25,174,176],{"id":175},"_11-sustainability-of-the-project","11. Sustainability of the project",[18,178,179],{},"Creating and maintaining our routes requires cooperation, voluntary work, and material as well as financial support. We value everyone who takes part in the project and helps ensure it carries on.",[10,181,183,187],{"id":182},"element13",[25,184,186],{"id":185},"_12-a-message-not-only-for-professionals","12. A message not only for professionals",[18,188,189],{},"All Tatra peaks are part of the national heritage. That applies to the routes leading to their summits too. Ours are meant to serve everyone who wants to develop and maintain their climbing skills. It is natural that mountain guides and climbing instructors also profit from the routes of the Ta33 project in their work. It is equally natural that those who benefit from the project should, according to their means, take part in supporting it and keeping it going. It is sad, but in twelve years of work we have not received a single cent from guides. From instructors we have received nothing either, though at least they raise a new generation of climbers. Someone who earns from the results of other people's work but is not willing to contribute, according to their means, to preserving it, is a free rider. Commercial use of our routes should come with a share in their further maintenance and development. Our routes are open to everyone and factual criticism has its place. But if you knowingly make use of what their character offers you, and then belittle that very character as something inferior, the question is fair: why did you choose them? If you are looking for a different kind of climbing, please choose other routes. There are thousands of them in the Tatras.",{"title":191,"searchDepth":192,"depth":192,"links":193},"",2,[194],{"id":16,"depth":195,"text":5},3,"Small Climbing Manifesto Tatra33 - the twelve rules we follow when creating new climbing routes in the High Tatras.","md",{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Fmisc\u002Fmanifest",{"title":5,"description":196},"en\u002Fmisc\u002Fmanifest",[204,205,206,207,208,209,210,211,212,213,214,215,216],{"id":12,"label":5},{"id":23,"label":28},{"id":46,"label":50},{"id":59,"label":63},{"id":69,"label":73},{"id":82,"label":86},{"id":104,"label":108},{"id":123,"label":127},{"id":133,"label":137},{"id":149,"label":153},{"id":162,"label":166},{"id":172,"label":176},{"id":182,"label":186},"r-NpPka-cPsC3qRnAtWTD8-aWV9wnrgKBai-u1YSZzE",1794135415416]