[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":282},["ShallowReactive",2],{"route-ta33-clovecina-en":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"description":273,"extension":274,"haveEssay":275,"meta":276,"navigation":277,"notHistory":275,"notVideo":277,"path":278,"seo":279,"stem":280,"topoInDoc":277,"__hash__":281},"ta33En\u002Fen\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecina.md","Človečina",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":262},"minimark",[9,26,57,78,159,175,201,252],[10,11,12,16,21],"route-section",{},[13,14],"route-image",{"src":15},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecinu\u002Fimage2",[17,18,20],"h1",{"id":19},"človečina-grade-v-zadný-popradský-zub-veľká-kôpka-2354-m","Človečina, grade V+, Zadný popradský zub - Veľká Kôpka 2354 m",[22,23,25],"h5",{"id":24},"its-not-all-the-same-to-live-or-rot-not-the-same-to-sing-or-just-howl-dedicated-to-pavol-dobšinský","\"It's not all the same, to live or rot, not the same, to sing or just howl.\" Dedicated to Pavol Dobšinský.",[10,27,29,34,39,43,47,50,54],{"id":28},"element1",[30,31,33],"h3",{"id":32},"characteristics","Characteristics",[35,36,38],"h4",{"id":37},"a-fairy-tale-adventure-with-dragon-heads-constantly-right-behind-your-back","A fairy-tale adventure with dragon heads constantly right behind your back",[40,41,42],"p",{},"Once upon a time, beyond the mountains and beyond the valleys, there was a little Dragon Valley, and in its middle a great Dragon Tarn. To this day the way there is hard, but the way out of it is harder still. Seven slabs, smooth as the water's surface, must be overcome. Then you must get through hanging grass all the way to a ridge that all but touches the sky. And you have to manage all of that while the sun is still up. From there, climb along the ridgeline, or around it, to the very highest summit. Only then can you descend - still with the sun - into the little valley below Váha.",[35,44,46],{"id":45},"in-full-gear-or-travelling-light","In full gear or travelling light",[40,48,49],{},"You can climb without packs too, and after the seventh pitch, rappel with a single 60-metre rope back to the start.",[35,51,53],{"id":52},"even-on-a-trusty-steed","Even on a trusty steed",[40,55,56],{},"Thanks to the paved road to Popradské pleso, it's also ideal for a Bike&Climb combination.",[10,58,60,64,68,71,75],{"id":59},"element2",[30,61,63],{"id":62},"approach-from-popradské-pleso","Approach from Popradské pleso:",[35,65,67],{"id":66},"a-straight-through-dragon-valley-230-h","A. Straight through Dragon Valley (2:30 h)",[40,69,70],{},"Behind the chalet there's a parking area by the wastewater treatment plant. At the western edge of the parking area is a small cabin used by staff from Chata pod Rysmi. From there a trail winds through the forest, heading northeast into dwarf pines and later onto a rocky moraine. It passes close to the boulderers' boulders. In the dwarf pines the trail is clear enough with a little attention; higher up on the moraine we've marked it with cairns. It brings you all the way above Dragon Tarn, from where the Človečina route is already clearly visible. The final stretch of the approach crosses unstable rocks.",[22,72,74],{"id":73},"b-via-zlomisková-dolina-230-h","B. Via Zlomisková dolina (2:30 h)",[40,76,77],{},"Dragon Valley can also be reached via Zlomisková dolina. From Popradské pleso we follow the main trail toward Sedlo v Ostrve. After about three minutes, at the warning sign prohibiting entry, we turn left into Zlomisková dolina. Alongside the roaring Ľadový potok stream we first cross a small concrete reservoir, then a wooden footbridge, and then walk through a grove of stone pines that look like giant bonsai trees. Above the first slope - by now we're well above the treeline - on a meadow often not just in bloom but also boggy, called Zlomisková roveň, we soon turn west toward Zlomisková veža. We go around it on the south side and reach first Malé dračie pleso and then Dragon Tarn itself, from where the Človečina route is already clearly visible. The final stretch of the approach crosses unstable rocks. Both approach routes described here can be combined on the way up and down.",[10,79,81,84,88,99,108,114,120,126,132,138,144,153],{"id":80},"element3",[13,82],{"src":83},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecina\u002Fimg01_opqudv",[30,85,87],{"id":86},"route-description","Route description",[89,90,92,95],"route-pitch",{"title":91},"Pitch 1, grade V+, 39 m, 4 bolts",[40,93,94],{},"The wall forms three vertical arêtes in its lower part, each about 15 metres tall. We start straight up the middle one. B1 and B2 are clearly visible from the ground. For shorter climbers (roughly under 175 cm), the section at B2 represents difficulty VI-. An easier alternative (IV+) is to start left of the arête on a rocky ramp, skipping B1 and B2. But the direct start up the arête has its own charm. Unless it's necessary, there's no need to skip it. Above B2 the arête ends at a ledge, from which we continue up a small wall, B3 (V+). Above the small wall, B4, the terrain loses its steepness and leads through grass around a loose boulder to a small wall below an overhang, where there's a comfortable anchor with a pack hook. In this final section the lead climber disappears from view. Watch out here for loose stones in the grass. Anchor 2 can be seen, with careful looking, up and to the right above us from Anchor 1.",[13,96],{"src":97,":portrait":98},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecinu\u002Fimg03_n2hc5y","true",[89,100,102,105],{"title":101},"Pitch 2, grade V+, 34 m, 6 bolts",[40,103,104],{},"Straight up a slab (V+), B1 and B2, to a large terrace, divided by rock \"steps\" (III+). From there you can see B3 and B4, which indicate the direction of a traverse below an overhang. We climb it rightward and upward (V+). Past the overhang we continue up a small wall rich in holds (F), straight up (V), B5 and B6. The anchor sits on a micro-balcony with a wedged stone at your feet. It's an intimate anchor - a third climber isn't especially welcome there. An easier alternative (IV+) is to bypass the opening slab and the following traverse on your own protection. From Anchor 1, the belayer can't see the lead climber during the traverse. The third anchor isn't visible from Anchor 2. Long quickdraws or slings come in handy at B2 and B3. The final part of the second pitch can be wet after heavy rain.",[13,106],{"src":107,":portrait":98},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecinu\u002Fimg04wnu8bh",[89,109,111],{"title":110},"Pitch 3, grade V+, 31 m, 5 bolts",[40,112,113],{},"From the anchor diagonally up and left, B1, then straight up B2 (V). From B3 we continue straight up a small rock pillar between patches of grass (IV+) through B4. Above B5, left to the anchor on a grassy ledge. The fourth anchor can be seen, with careful looking, straight above us from Anchor 3. The lead climber disappears from view after climbing past B2.",[89,115,117],{"title":116},"Pitch 4, grade V+, 33 m, 6 bolts",[40,118,119],{},"From the third anchor we can see the line of bolts running up the middle of an enormous slab. That's the way up. First it's easier (IV+), up to B2, then a compact, uninterrupted slab begins, and pure joy, B3 to B6 (V+). The anchor sits on a large, comfortable ledge with a pack hook. Climbers can see each other the whole time. The fifth anchor is visible straight above us from Anchor 4.",[89,121,123],{"title":122},"Pitch 5, grade V, 24 m, 6 bolts",[40,124,125],{},"We continue up the middle of the slab to an anchor for two. Climbers can see each other the whole time. The sixth anchor isn't visible from Anchor 5.",[89,127,129],{"title":128},"Pitch 6, grade V+, 36 m, 9 bolts",[40,130,131],{},"First up a ramp to the right, B1, then straight up B2 and B3. Past B4, slightly diagonally up and left, up to B7. From there, slightly right again, easier (IV+), to the anchor on a large ledge with a pack hook. Climbers can see each other right up until the final move onto the anchor. The seventh anchor can be seen, with careful looking, up and to the right above us from Anchor 6.",[89,133,135],{"title":134},"Pitch 7, grade V+, 35 m, 7 bolts",[40,136,137],{},"From the anchor, four metres to a large grassy ledge. From there into a wall broken up by diagonal grassy ledges, visible even from Dragon Tarn. We climb up to B7, staying up and slightly right the whole way. Above B7, a traverse left to a not particularly comfortable anchor. This pitch can be unpleasant if the grassy ledges are wet. The variant avoiding the grass goes at VI-. Climbers can see each other the whole time. Anchor number eight isn't visible from Anchor 7.",[89,139,141],{"title":140},"Pitch 8, grade II, 25 m, 2 bolts",[40,142,143],{},"Straight up 7 metres to B1, then we continue up a steep grassy ledge, B2, to the anchor. Climbers can see each other. Anchor number eight isn't obvious from Anchor 7. Approach shoes are more suitable for pitches 8 and 9, as well as for the whole continuation along the ridge.",[89,145,147,150],{"title":146},"Pitch 9, grade II, 40 m, 2 pitons",[40,148,149],{},"We continue up a steep grassy ledge, 15 metres to two anchor pitons (remnants from the first ascent), and another 15 metres to the ridge. From the ridge it's 10 metres to the summit of Zadný popradský zub.",[13,151],{"src":152},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecinu\u002Fimg4",[89,154,156],{"title":155},"Continuing along the ridge, grade II\u002FIII",[40,157,158],{},"First down into a little notch, then along a distinct ledge on the west face (Žabia dolinka) of the little tower separating us from Zadná popradská lávka. The ledge is clearly visible from the summit of Zadný popradský zub. From Zadná popradská lávka to the summit of Veľká Kôpka, 2354 m a.s.l. From the summit of Kôpka, first down the west face (Žabia dolina), via a system of cascades and ledges (II), into a gap in the ridge. Here we cross to the east side (Dragon Valley), and later back onto the ridge itself. Don't miss the turnoff heading west (Žabia dolina) along a rock ledge (I), at the end of which we turn almost 180 degrees. We continue (CH) northeast along a scree ramp to a snowfield in Kotlinka pod Váhou. Here we join the red-marked hiking trail. There's no dress code for dinner and the piano recital at Chata pod Rysmi.",[10,160,162,166,169,172],{"id":161},"element4",[30,163,165],{"id":164},"descent","Descent:",[40,167,168],{},"From Dolinka pod Váhou, follow the red-marked trail.",[40,170,171],{},"If we rappel back to the start at Dragon Tarn, on the final rappel (pitch 1) we route the line into the easier ascent variant. Otherwise a 60-metre rope won't be enough! Watch out for loose rocks!",[13,173],{"src":174},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecinu\u002Fimage05_ccqzt0",[10,176,178,182,198],{"id":177},"element5",[30,179,181],{"id":180},"time-required-from-popradské-pleso","Time required from Popradské pleso",[183,184,185,189,192,195],"ul",{},[186,187,188],"li",{},"Approach to the wall ..... 2:30 hours.",[186,190,191],{},"The climb up to the seventh pitch ..... 4 hours + 1 hour to rappel down.",[186,193,194],{},"The climb including the ridge traverse ..... 7 hours.",[186,196,197],{},"Descent ..... 2:30 hours.",[40,199,200],{},"These times apply to a two-person climbing team. For a party of three, or for beginners, it may take several hours longer!",[10,202,204,208],{"id":203},"element6",[30,205,207],{"id":206},"gear","Gear",[183,209,210,213,216,219,222,225,228,231,234,237,240,243,246,249],{},[186,211,212],{},"a sit harness and chest harness",[186,214,215],{},"a helmet",[186,217,218],{},"a single 60 m rope, or alternatively 2 x 40 m twin or half ropes",[186,220,221],{},"9 quickdraws",[186,223,224],{},"6 locking carabiners and HMS carabiners",[186,226,227],{},"4 cams (2 tiny, small, medium; larger sizes come in handy on the ridge too)",[186,229,230],{},"slings and a prusik cord",[186,232,233],{},"climbing shoes",[186,235,236],{},"a first-aid kit with a thermal reflective blanket",[186,238,239],{},"a headlamp",[186,241,242],{},"an isotonic drink, or a thermos with warm tea, and food for the field",[186,244,245],{},"clothing to protect against cold and rain",[186,247,248],{},"a mobile phone with a charged battery",[186,250,251],{},"a topo with a route description",[10,253,255,259],{"id":254},"element8",[35,256,258],{"id":257},"history","History:",[40,260,261],{},"Climbed ground-up in July 2020 by Zu Božiková and Martin Murár. Protection installed by the team: Dominika Riečanová, Veronika Riečanová, Martin Zbuška, Braňo Stavný, Peter Hrčka, Zu Božiková and Martin Murár.",{"title":263,"searchDepth":264,"depth":264,"links":265},"",2,[266,268,269,270,271,272],{"id":32,"depth":267,"text":33},3,{"id":62,"depth":267,"text":63},{"id":86,"depth":267,"text":87},{"id":164,"depth":267,"text":165},{"id":180,"depth":267,"text":181},{"id":206,"depth":267,"text":207},"Seven pitches of slab climbing leading to an airy ridge.","md",false,{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecina",{"title":5,"description":273},"en\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Fclovecina","_MF5AQlx9IdxsV-kYpM6CVBZAVA9li_0FoK06R4OvVs",1794135401734]