[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":348},["ShallowReactive",2],{"route-ta33-jubilejna-en":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"description":339,"extension":340,"haveEssay":341,"meta":342,"navigation":343,"notHistory":341,"notVideo":341,"path":344,"seo":345,"stem":346,"topoInDoc":343,"__hash__":347},"ta33En\u002Fen\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna.md","Jubilejná",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":326},"minimark",[9,26,95,105,203,216,245,302,313],[10,11,12,16,21],"route-section",{},[13,14],"route-image",{"src":15},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna\u002Fimg05",[17,18,20],"h1",{"id":19},"jubilejná-grade-iv-velický-zub-2002-m-asl","Jubilejná, grade IV - Velický zub, 2002 m a.s.l.",[22,23,25],"h5",{"id":24},"bring-your-children-into-it-and-maybe-your-children-will-one-day-bring-you","Bring your children into it, and maybe your children will one day bring you.",[10,27,29,34,38,42,47,50,54,57,61,64,68,71,75,78,82,85,89,92],{"id":28},"element1",[30,31,33],"h3",{"id":32},"characteristics","Characteristics",[35,36,37],"p",{},"A sport-style mountaineering classic on solid rock. Fully protected with glue-in bolts on the first two pitches and partly on the remaining seven. It's suitable for everyone with the right knowledge, but especially for the following seven categories.",[13,39],{"src":40,":portrait":41},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna\u002Fimg02.png","true",[43,44,46],"h4",{"id":45},"experienced-climbing-parents-with-their-own-children","Experienced climbing parents with their own children",[35,48,49],{},"Thanks to the high standard of protection along the route and the detailed information needed for the climb, climbing parents can share the joy of a high-mountain ascent with their children on their own, without outside help. The route is suitable for climbing-active children from age 10. The ideal team is a parent-child-parent combination. The child (and the parent too) needs to be able to climb grade V UIAA on an indoor wall, and to independently handle belaying and rappelling technique.",[43,51,53],{"id":52},"athletic-non-climbing-youth-with-a-professional","Athletic non-climbing youth with a professional",[35,55,56],{},"Non-climbing parents can give their children a genuine climbing experience with the help of a climbing instructor or mountain guide. The route is suitable for children and youth with no climbing experience from age 12, since pitches at grade IV UIAA usually represent the upper limit of what's climbable for a non-climber. Athletes have better odds of managing the route. Fear of heights isn't an obstacle - in climbing, everyone gets scared sometimes, willingly or not.",[43,58,60],{"id":59},"beginner-climbers","Beginner climbers",[35,62,63],{},"Easy route-finding on the wall, combined with a thoughtfully chosen mix of glue-in bolts and precise descriptions of spots suitable for placing your own protection, makes this an ideal way to improve your climbing in high-mountain conditions. Chains with a central belay ring at the anchors allow a full rappel down the route in case of a crisis. A safe descent that leads right back to the start also means you can climb the route without heavy packs.",[43,65,67],{"id":66},"climbers-who-climb-for-the-joy-of-it","Climbers who climb for the joy of it",[35,69,70],{},"Thanks to its southwest orientation, the route offers pleasant climbing on sun-warmed, and in this case also interestingly shaped, granite. It sits in a gorgeous setting. The towers of the Granátové and Opálové Mnísi, and the often snow-capped east face of Gerlachovský štít, complete the climbing backdrop. Jubilejná is an ideal bridge to every route on the west and northwest Velická wall, Granátová vežička, the right pillar of Granátová stena, and the walls above Granátová lávka.",[43,72,74],{"id":73},"climbing-and-non-climbing-couples-in-love","Climbing and non-climbing couples in love",[35,76,77],{},"They'll especially appreciate the closeness and character of the approach, as well as how little time the whole outing takes, leaving room for plenty of long looks into each other's eyes. You can put your climbing shoes on just 35 minutes after setting out from the comfort of Sliezky dom - provided you don't linger too long pondering the difference in tone between the drops falling at Večný dážď (Eternal Rain), stopping to smell every flower at Kvetnica, or scratching the necks of grazing chamois and marmots. At most of the anchors, climbers can see each other, which isn't just nice but also allows constant mutual checking in moments when we lose our composure. Non-climbing couples in love can climb the route with a discreet professional.",[43,79,81],{"id":80},"hikers-via-ferrata-enthusiasts-and-other-athletes-with-a-professional","Hikers, via-ferrata enthusiasts, and other athletes with a professional",[35,83,84],{},"Still-active mountain lovers get the chance here to try real climbing. Climbing offers a different experience from trudging up a valley in the often long lines of hikers. Moving vertically, touching nothing but rock with your hands, is different from \"inspecting lightning rods\" on a via ferrata. Pitches at grade IV UIAA usually represent the upper limit for a non-climber. Older age isn't a barrier - in climbing, the saying often holds: \"An old climber is a good climber.\"",[43,86,88],{"id":87},"crag-climbers-the-first-two-pitches","Crag climbers (the first two pitches)",[35,90,91],{},"The first two pitches of Jubilejná are protected so they can be climbed with just quickdraws, without placing your own protection. From the anchor above the second pitch, a single 25-metre rappel to the right gets you down to the base of the wall, to the start of the gully (Grósz, grade II), without needing to leave any gear behind on the wall. Thanks to this, these pitches also suit pure crag climbers, as well as climbers who only have part of a day available.",[35,93,94],{},"If you decide on a two-pitch sport-climbing excursion on the route, though, know that the most beautiful parts of the climb will remain unexplored above you.",[10,96,98,102],{"id":97},"element2",[30,99,101],{"id":100},"approach-to-the-wall","Approach to the wall:",[35,103,104],{},"From Sliezky dom, 1670 m a.s.l., follow the green-marked trail along the east shore of Velické pleso. Past the tarn, on the first rise of the valley, the trail begins to climb. It leads to an unusual spot called Večný dážď (Eternal Rain). Over about ten metres of trail here, water constantly drips from a large overhang. From here the trail begins moving closer and closer to Velický vodopád. On the switchbacks nearest the waterfall, look northeast, toward Velická stena. Roughly level with the cave in the lower part of Velická stena, to its left, is a small notch (the crossing to Granátová vežička) and the summit of a sharp tower called Velický zub. Continue along the trail until you reach the upper part of the valley, formed by a meadow - Kvetnica. Here the trail starts climbing only very gently. You'll pass an inconspicuous turnoff leading to Velická próba, and shortly after you're at the small Kvetnicové pliesko. On the right side of the trail here is a large stone cairn. Leave the marked trail here and turn right. Climb up the grassy rib on the right, leading below a chimney (Birkenmajer-Kupczyk). Above it is Žľab pod Dvojitou. This chimney separates Velický zub from Granátová stena. On the right side of the grassy rib is the remainder of a wooden cage once used to trap chamois. About a hundred metres from the chimney, turn off the rib to the right toward the lowest point of the wall. The start of the route, at 1876 m a.s.l., is marked by a cairn. Ten metres to the right of the start is a small polished stainless-steel plaque in memory of a young Czech climber.",[10,106,108,112,115,125,131,137,149,161,173,185,194],{"id":107},"element3",[30,109,111],{"id":110},"route-description","Route description",[13,113],{"src":114},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna\u002Fimg03.png",[116,117,119,122],"route-pitch",{"title":118},"Pitch 1: grade IV, 29 metres, 12 bolts",[35,120,121],{},"Right below the start of the Jubilejná route are two bolts (an anchor), allowing climbers of noticeably different weights to belay each other. The start is a low-angle little slab into a 2 m overhang. We climb the overhang, grade IV, 2 bolts, from the left. Above the overhang we continue up a shallow depression, diagonally right, 3 bolts, to a grassy ledge. From there, still diagonally right, across small walls, 4 bolts, until we reach a little slab in a chimney below an overhang, grade III, 8 bolts. Here we traverse 7 m to the right, 3 bolts, to Anchor 1, which is hidden behind an arête, grade IV. Climbers can see each other from the anchors, but Anchor 1 isn't visible from the ground.",[13,123],{"src":124,":portrait":41},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna\u002Fimg04.png",[116,126,128],{"title":127},"Pitch 2: grade IV, 19 metres, 6 bolts",[35,129,130],{},"Feet on a diagonal crack, 3 m to the right to the first bolt, grade III. From there up a low-angle slab, 11 m, 4 bolts, grade IV, to an almost horizontal grassy crack. Then 5 m diagonally right, 1 bolt, across a rock block to Anchor 2, below a loose! but well \"seated\" stone, grade III. Climbers can see each other from the anchors. Anchor 3 is visible from Anchor 2.",[116,132,134],{"title":133},"Pitch 3: grade III, 26 metres, 4 bolts",[35,135,136],{},"Straight up 15 m through grass and rock steps, 1 bolt, to a grassy ledge, 2 bolts, grade II\u002FIII. (3 m above the first bolt are cracks for a larger cam or a nut.) From the grassy ledge above the second bolt we climb 10 m diagonally right to Anchor 3, which sits above a small ledge. (Above the third bolt, to the right, is an excellent, nearly horizontal crack for a larger cam, or to the left a sharp flake for a sling.) Climbers can see each other from the anchors. The fourth anchor is on top of a small tower. It isn't visible from Anchor 3.",[116,138,140,143,146],{"title":139},"Pitch 4: grade III, 24 metres, 5 bolts",[35,141,142],{},"2 m straight up, 1 bolt, to a grassy ledge. From there right to an arête. The arête leads us, 10 m of beautifully shaped granite, to the left, 2 bolts. From the grassy ledge, above which sits the fourth bolt on a small low-angle slab, we climb straight up. Over an enormous rock block leaning against the little tower, above which is the fifth bolt, a high step brings us to the top of the little tower, where Anchor 4 sits. (The rock block is an ideal spot to sling a horn.)",[35,144,145],{},"Climbers can see each other from the anchors. The fifth anchor is at the \"pulpit\" below a small pillar. It's clearly visible from Anchor 4.",[35,147,148],{},"For rappelling if needed, Anchor 4 also has a cord loop with a large maillon carabiner attached.",[116,150,152,155,158],{"title":151},"Pitch 5 - a traverse with a downclimb and a climb back up: grade III, 10 metres, 2 bolts",[35,153,154],{},"5 m down into a grassy channel. Another 5 m up over almost right-angled blocks, past a small corner, to the anchor. From B1 we climb diagonally up and left, B2, then traverse to the pulpit, grade III+. Climbers can see each other from the anchors. Both protection bolts are also clearly visible from the fourth anchor. The fifth anchor sits at roughly the same height as Anchor 4.",[35,156,157],{},"Climbers can partly see each other from the anchors. The sixth anchor, above the small pillar, isn't visible from the pulpit.",[13,159],{"src":160},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna\u002Fimg01",[116,162,164,167,170],{"title":163},"Pitch 6: grade IV, 22 metres, 4 bolts",[35,165,166],{},"2 m diagonally right to the arête of the small pillar. Boldly straight up 20 m, grade IV, 4 bolts, to Anchor 6. (Between B3 and B4 is an ideal short vertical crack that takes a medium-sized cam well. Above B4 there are good options for placing cams and slings.) Check the strength of footholds and handholds carefully as you climb. Your partner is on the anchor directly below you!",[35,168,169],{},"Climbers can see each other from the anchors only once past the pillar. Anchor 7 isn't visible from the pulpit.",[13,171],{"src":172},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna\u002Fimg06",[116,174,176,179,182],{"title":175},"Pitch 7: grade III, 28 metres, 3 bolts",[35,177,178],{},"Up a low-angle slab to the first bolt, 5 m, grade II. Up a corner and slabs to the left of the ridge to a small step, 20 m, grade III, 2 bolts. (Between the first and third bolts there are excellent options for placing cams and nuts.) Over a small cascade to Anchor 7 on a flat stone to the left of the ridge, 3 m, grade II. (Above the third bolt you can sling a 180 cm loop.)",[35,180,181],{},"Climbers can see each other from the anchors only as far as the cascade. Anchor 8 isn't visible from the pulpit.",[13,183],{"src":184},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna\u002Fimg07.png",[116,186,188,191],{"title":187},"Pitch 8: grade IV, 29 metres, 4 bolts",[35,189,190],{},"Across a small wall to the right, above an overhang, 3 m, 1 bolt, grade IV. Along the arête over rises, 20 m, grade III. We climb the rise below the summit via a small wall to the right, 6 m, grade III. Anchor 9 is a metre below the summit of Velický zub.",[35,192,193],{},"Climbers can see each other from the anchors only to a limited extent. The ninth anchor is on top of a neighbouring little tower. The chain and bolts, though, are hidden when viewed from Anchor 8.",[116,195,197,200],{"title":196},"Pitch 9: grade II\u002FIII, 29 metres, no bolts",[35,198,199],{},"Along the ridge, down into a rocky notch and then up onto a little tower, grade II to III. Anchor 9 is on top of the little tower. (Along the whole ridge there are excellent options for placing slings, cams, and nuts.)",[35,201,202],{},"Climbers can see each other from the anchors.",[10,204,206,210,213],{"id":205},"element4",[30,207,209],{"id":208},"descent","Descent:",[35,211,212],{},"The climb ends at the notch that leads across toward Granátová vežička, or to the right pillar of Granátová stena (Kiefer-Samuel, grade IV). We descend along a little traversing path heading south, down through grass alongside a small wall straight ahead of us on the left. We head toward a rock with a cairn beside it, 30 m away. From the rock (a sling) we traverse lower, down through steep grass, to bolt ZB1 on a small wall. We don't turn right, straight down, onto the old descent path, but continue traversing through the grass to bolt ZB2 to the right of the small wall. From there, on an occasionally hard-to-spot little path, to the lower edge of the bowl, ZB3, below Velická stena, into the upper part of the gully that the Grósz route follows. ZB4 is on the often damp, shaded NW-facing wall right by the gully. From there, on a 165-degree turn, we descend traversing along a little path to the opposite, sunny side of the gully. ZB5 is on a boulder by the path. From ZB5, down diagonal rock slabs in a \"zigzag,\" down and to the right to the first rappel station, which sits above steep grass. On the way down it isn't visible, since it's around the corner and oriented straight down. Several cairns mark the way to it. The distances between successive bolts on the descent never exceed 25 metres! It's walking terrain. The first rappel, 29 m, crosses steep grass. (It's ideal for practicing rappelling technique - you can stand at any point during the rappel.) In the middle of the gully you can make out a small rock pillar. At the lower part of the pillar, on the right side, is the second rappel station. It isn't visible from the first rappel (it's around the corner). We rappel 28 m straight down over low-angle terrain during this one. Watch out for loose rocks lying in the gully! At the end of the rappel we move 5 m (still clipped into the rope) left into a small notch below the wall, ZB6. We don't continue down into the gully to the left or right! We downclimb 20 m, grade I, along a small rocky rib to the left, above a small wall to the left of the gully. Here is the third rappel station. It also isn't visible, but it's marked with a cairn. We rappel 26 m down the wall. We're now at the base of the gully that the Grósz route follows. We walk 40 m to the right along a little path to reach the start of the Jubilejná route.",[35,214,215],{},"The whole descent is on walking terrain. The rappels are on grade II ground.",[10,217,219,223,242],{"id":218},"element5",[30,220,222],{"id":221},"time-required","Time required",[224,225,226,230,233,236,239],"ul",{},[227,228,229],"li",{},"Approach to the wall: 35 minutes",[227,231,232],{},"The climb: 3 hours 10 minutes",[227,234,235],{},"Descent: 45 minutes",[227,237,238],{},"Return to Sliezky dom: 30 minutes",[227,240,241],{},"Total: 5 hours",[35,243,244],{},"These times apply to a two-person climbing team. Climbing with a child, it may take up to twice as long!",[10,246,248,252],{"id":247},"element6",[30,249,251],{"id":250},"gear","Gear",[224,253,254,257,260,263,266,269,272,275,278,281,284,287,290,293,296,299],{},[227,255,256],{},"sit harnesses and chest harnesses (or full-body harnesses for children)",[227,258,259],{},"a helmet",[227,261,262],{},"a single 60 m rope (matches the rappel stations, built at 30-metre intervals, and lets the lead climber be lowered to the anchor from anywhere along the pitch - simpler to manage for children)",[227,264,265],{},"6 quickdraws + 6 slings (60, 120, 180, and 240 cm) with carabiners",[227,267,268],{},"6 locking carabiners and 2 HMS carabiners",[227,270,271],{},"a belay\u002Frappel device for each climber (for example a Gigi or a Jul)",[227,273,274],{},"4 cams - basic sizes, or nuts with a nut tool",[227,276,277],{},"comfortable climbing shoes or approach shoes",[227,279,280],{},"a first-aid kit with a thermal reflective blanket",[227,282,283],{},"a headlamp",[227,285,286],{},"a thermos with warm tea",[227,288,289],{},"food for the field",[227,291,292],{},"clothing to protect against cold and rain",[227,294,295],{},"a mobile phone with a charged battery",[227,297,298],{},"a topo with a route description",[227,300,301],{},"crampons and an ice axe (early in summer)",[10,303,305,309],{"id":304},"element7",[30,306,308],{"id":307},"video","Video",[310,311],"route-video",{"id":312},"c8c26V6d0dE",[10,314,316,320,323],{"id":315},"element8",[30,317,319],{"id":318},"history","History",[35,321,322],{},"The first ascent of the Jubilejná route was climbed on 4 September 2014 by a pair of professional climbing instructors. After an initial search for a classic route suitable for re-equipping for children and youth, Martin Murár and Jozef Palásthy ultimately decided to open their own line. The tower they made their first ascent on didn't even have a name yet. Its misfortune was standing close to larger walls, so despite its impressive shape resembling a predator's tooth, it had escaped most climbers' attention. In keeping with the surrounding names, it was named Velický zub (Velická Tooth). The gorgeous area of walls and towers of the Velické Granáty, where Velický zub sits, was chosen for several reasons. Two can be considered key: simple, quick access to the starting point of the climbing tour, and the accommodating attitude of the management of Sliezky dom, the Vysoké Tatry Tourism Association, and the Slovak Mountaineering Association JAMES. After the first ascent, climbed ground-up, the route was cleared of loose blocks in autumn 2014, and 71 protection, anchor, and descent points were installed. At the same time, a new descent variant was created via the gully that the Grósz route (grade II) follows. Descending via Granátová lávka is prohibited for nature-conservation reasons. Even though the greatest emphasis was placed on safety, the line kept its high-mountain character.",[35,324,325],{},"\"Jubilejná\" was climbed to mark the fifteenth anniversary of the founding of the Muraria climbing and ski-mountaineering school, where the whole idea was born. Fifteen years is, today in Europe, the age of legal responsibility. The route is therefore a symbolic celebration of reaching that milestone with a clean record - in the practice of a climbing and ski-mountaineering school, that means without serious, let alone fatal, accidents. That's why the protected line carries a festive name. It's a project through which the High Tatras, in the field of preparing children and youth for climbing, once again reminded the wider climbing world of themselves after a long while. Over the following years, Velický zub took its place among the Tatra classics. Several figures from Slovak cultural life, as well as Olympic champions, have climbed to its summit via this route - so don't hesitate, go get to know it.",{"title":327,"searchDepth":328,"depth":328,"links":329},"",2,[330,332,333,334,335,336,337,338],{"id":32,"depth":331,"text":33},3,{"id":100,"depth":331,"text":101},{"id":110,"depth":331,"text":111},{"id":208,"depth":331,"text":209},{"id":221,"depth":331,"text":222},{"id":250,"depth":331,"text":251},{"id":307,"depth":331,"text":308},{"id":318,"depth":331,"text":319},"The most popular protected route in the Tatras.","md",false,{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna",{"title":5,"description":339},"en\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Fjubilejna","dNr3djelfMVd8OTFs0nS22RJLPu37tP006b12RTGzc0",1794135403309]