[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":331},["ShallowReactive",2],{"route-ta33-matematikatmyasvetla-en":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"description":322,"extension":323,"haveEssay":324,"meta":325,"navigation":326,"notHistory":324,"notVideo":326,"path":327,"seo":328,"stem":329,"topoInDoc":326,"__hash__":330},"ta33En\u002Fen\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002FmatematikaTmyASvetla.md","Matematika tmy a svetla",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":310},"minimark",[9,28,78,88,192,213,234,291],[10,11,12,16,21,25],"route-section",{},[13,14],"route-image",{"src":15},"routes\u002Fcards\u002Ftopo01.png",[17,18,20],"h1",{"id":19},"matematika-tmy-a-svetla-grade-v-ihla-v-ostrve-1876-m","Matematika tmy a svetla, grade V+, Ihla v Ostrve 1876 m",[22,23,24],"p",{},"Darkness is only a boundary, not non-being. Dedicated to Ivana Korýtková-Stohlová.",[22,26,27],{},"Darkness isn't its own entity, but a boundary of light's being. It's light's limit, in which there is no void, only a transition. The meeting of light and darkness is a mystery that mathematics alone cannot resolve. Light and darkness, after all, don't form an opposition, but a single whole. Mathematics can hint at the framework, but the ultimate meaning goes beyond every calculation.",[10,29,31,36,41,44,48,51,54,58,75],{"id":30},"element1",[32,33,35],"h3",{"id":34},"characteristics","Characteristics",[37,38,40],"h4",{"id":39},"an-airy-route-also-suitable-for-a-shorter-climbing-day","An airy route, also suitable for a shorter climbing day",[22,42,43],{},"An airy high-mountain route on solid rock, requiring your own protection to be placed, and only partly protected by glue-in bolts. Succeeding on it calls for confidence in on-sight climbing at grade V+ on crags, and at least basic skill in placing your own protection. The key pitch (30 m, grade V+) has good placement options, so two bolts are enough on it.",[37,45,47],{"id":46},"optional-length-and-difficulty","Optional length and difficulty",[22,49,50],{},"The route's difficulty can be raised to VI- by combining it with the Aviatika route. Various combinations can be built here overall.",[22,52,53],{},"Matematika... is also ideal for a Bike&Climb&Ceproslalom combination. You can climb without packs too, since they can be stashed at various points along the route. From the notch below the needle, the trip to the start and back for the packs (grade II) takes about 25 minutes.",[37,55,57],{"id":56},"options-for-various-combinations","Options for various combinations",[59,60,61,69],"ul",{},[62,63,64,68],"li",{},[65,66,67],"strong",{},"Matematická dospelosť, grade VI+, 11 pitches","\nCombining with the first part of the Dospelosť route, which runs through the Ostrva Gallery, creates a climbing tour par excellence, Matematická dospelosť, grade VI+, with 11 pitches in total.",[62,70,71,74],{},[65,72,73],{},"Matematická dospelosť aviatika, grade VI+, 15 pitches","\nAdding four more pitches above the notch below the needle creates Matematická dospelosť aviatika, grade VI+, with 15 pitches.",[22,76,77],{},"Everyone can \"mix\" together whatever suits their own climbing. Every pitch is at most 30 metres long, allowing a straightforward rappel down to the walking terrain below the wall in case of an emergency, even with a single 60-metre rope.",[10,79,81,85],{"id":80},"element2",[32,82,84],{"id":83},"approach-from-popradské-pleso-45-min","Approach from Popradské pleso (45 min):",[22,86,87],{},"From the benches in front of the chapel at the Symbolic Cemetery, walk past the Bachleda and Budzák memorial plaques, and turn onto the trail behind the railing right after them. Watch out for the tree roots lying under the leaf litter on the ground, and follow the little trail into the dwarf pines. Keep following the trail, which leads you onto a southwest-facing moraine made of large boulders. Straight up over the boulders, then along the trail below the Left Tower of the Ostrva Gallery. Here, turn left below the wall, past the tiny little cave under the gully in which two flat wedged boulders sit - visible even from a distance (the Pavlín-Kráčalík route). Past the little cave the trail bends east, right into the gully. We climb the gully, staying almost the whole time next to the wall, which is on our right. Past the second large boulder, don't miss the turnoff for the descent route from the gallery, invisible from below. Turn off and climb up the \"descent path,\" which undulates up and down twice. Walk carefully - part of the Ostrva Gallery is below us. In 5 minutes we're at a small notch. Ahead of us is the imposing wall of Zvon, rising on the other side of the gully, and on the left side, right in the notch, we spot a chain. We continue in the direction the chain indicates, straight up, and then five metres down, onto a little path that fades into the dwarf pines. From there, by a traverse (a second chain), into the gully leading all the way to Nižná Ostrvová Bránka. We don't turn off by the traverse into Zvon, but continue up the gully. After another 5 minutes the gully narrows, and on its left side we spot completely compact \"laid-back\" granite slabs. The Tvorivosť (Sliping Bjuty) route, grade V-, runs up them.",[10,89,91,95,98,101,104,107,110,113,134,146,159,168,177],{"id":90},"element3",[32,92,94],{"id":93},"route-description","Route description",[13,96],{"src":97},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg01_xhv6cj",[22,99,100],{},"::route-pitch{title=\"Pitch 1, \"Tvorivosť\" (Sliping Bjuty), grade V-, 30 m, 6 bolts\"}",[22,102,103],{},"Easily to the first ledge (B1), then joyfully up slabs, in the line of the bolts, straight up. Placing protection isn't necessary, and neither is strength. What matters most is holding your composure with dignity. This pitch makes an ideal intro for finding out how your climbing shoes get along with Tatra lichen and granite.",[22,105,106],{},"\"Tvorivosť\" can serve as ideal warm-up climbing for climbers heading into Zvon Ostrvy. The variant up the corner to the right of the bolts is graded IV- and got the name Kocúr v čižmách.",[22,108,109],{},"Climbers can see each other the whole time, and it can occasionally get pretty entertaining too.",[22,111,112],{},"Variant: the whole of Sliping Bjuty can be bypassed on the right via the gully (grade II).\n::",[114,115,117,120,123,125],"route-pitch",{"title":116},"Continuing up the gully (15 min)",[22,118,119],{},"From the top of Tvorivosť you get a good view of the SW face and the summit of Ihla v Ostrve. It's split roughly in half by a slightly overhanging terrace covered in dwarf pine. The Matematika tmy a svetla route, grade V+, runs up the right (south) edge, and its start is 45 metres below the terrace. Aviatika spánku a bdenia runs straight up the left (north) edge of this terrace, and its start is 50 metres below it. Near them are two routes from the summer of 1961 (N. Vondráčková, S. Zajíček, J. Zárybnický). We've left all the pitons and wooden pegs from these routes in their original state. So orthodox traditionalists can find something to enjoy here too.",[22,121,122],{},"We continue up the gully, and in the higher sections via diagonal traverses along its left side. At the point of the traverse (the first rise in the gully) to the right, there's a spot with easy climbing. The anchor (2 bolts), connected by a chain, sits 7 m above this traverse, on a higher level of the gully, directly below the SW face of Ihla v Ostrve. If you pay close attention to your surroundings, it's visible even during a normal pass through the gully. If you need to bail from that anchor, you can rappel 30 metres and get past the first rise in the gully that way. The rappel doesn't follow the gully, but the small wall next to it.",[22,124,122],{},[22,126,127,128,133],{},"The start of ",[129,130,132],"a",{"href":131},"\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Faviatika","Aviatika spánku a bdenia"," is 10 metres to the left from there and four metres lower.",[114,135,137,140,143],{"title":136},"Pitch 2, grade III, 24 m",[22,138,139],{},"The landmark for the route is a grassy hollow with a small tree, above which is a distinct overhang. From the anchor we climb a small channel, to the rock blocks to the right of the tree. From there we continue up the channel, all the way to a grassy terrace with a tiny stone pine, where there's a comfortable anchor. The terrain is easy and allows for a bit of route-finding fun.",[22,141,142],{},"Climbers can see each other partially.",[13,144],{"src":145},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg02_o7wxtw",[114,147,149,152,155],{"title":148},"Pitch 3, grade V, 28 m, 3 bolts",[22,150,151],{},"Below the overhang and left, along a receding ramp (B1). To our left is a small pillar, leading to a pointed rock. We keep climbing slightly to the right of the small pillar (B2), up to the rock. Here, above a small slab, is B3. From there straight up, to the dwarf-pine-and-grass ledge - described above - that divides the west face of Ihla v Ostrve - the anchor.",[22,153,154],{},"Climbers can see each other up to B3. From the upper anchor you can partly see the second climber. Bolts B1 and B2 are visible from the anchor, and the line is easy to recognize thanks to them.",[13,156],{"src":157,":portrait":158},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg03_bjy5ta","true",[114,160,162,165],{"title":161},"Trotuár",[22,163,164],{},"This is the dwarf-pine terrace connecting the edges of Ihla's west face. The terrace is easily passable in both directions (grade II to III-), which allows the Matematika... and Aviatika... routes to be combined. From the right edge of the terrace, in an emergency, you can escape into the gully with a ten-metre rappel. There's a bolt there as well as a good crack for placing gear. We borrowed the name \"trotuár\" (pavement) from architecture and urban planning, where it denotes a walkway raised above the surrounding terrain. If you can't picture it, visit Banská Štiavnica and take a walk along one.",[13,166],{"src":167,":portrait":158},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg04_abneap",[114,169,171,174],{"title":170},"Pitch 4, grade V+, 30 m, 2 bolts",[22,172,173],{},"Diagonally right along the rounded edge of a dwarf-pine ledge (3 m, grade III). Here, around the corner, is B1, which isn't visible from the anchor. Looking up from there, roughly 20 metres above us, we'll see B2 on a slab. It'll help us find the line of ascent. Short-sighted climbers can use binoculars for this purpose. Diagonally left through a corner, then up a slightly overhanging small wall straight up and right, to the \"pulpit.\" (From B1 you can also climb nicely straight up to the pulpit.) From there, slightly left into a slab (B2). In the fresh Tatra air, we continue for a while along the arête, and later right, to the anchor. Climbers can see each other. Once you \"discover\" B2, the line is obvious.",[22,175,176],{},"The route crosses N. Vondráčková, S. Zajíček, and J. Zárybnický's route from July 1961 (A. Puškáš, VT V vol. 1972) at the little pulpit.",[114,178,180,183,186,189],{"title":179},"Pitch 5, grade V, 20 m, 1 bolt",[22,181,182],{},"Up and slightly left, to the top of a small triangular wall (grade V, B1). From there, easier (grade IV), up a corner to the summit.",[22,184,185],{},"Climbers can't see each other once they're up in the corner.",[13,187],{"src":188},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg05_lwgqnm",[13,190],{"src":191},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg06_flsw0s",[10,193,195,199,204,207,210],{"id":194},"element4",[32,196,198],{"id":197},"descent-45-min","Descent (45 min):",[200,201,203],"h5",{"id":202},"by-rappel-from-the-summit-of-ihla-v-ostrve-into-the-upper-notch-below-the-needle-28-m","By rappel from the summit of Ihla v Ostrve into the upper notch below the needle, 28 m",[22,205,206],{},"After rappelling we move into the notch (CH) below the needle. From here we can add four more pitches from Aviatika, descend the gully, or head to the summit of Zadná Ostrva (grade I), via the gully through Nižná Ostrvová Bránka. From there, along an unmarked little path to Sedlo Ostrvy and along the main trail to Popradské pleso.",[13,208],{"src":209},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg07_vrrcjr",[13,211],{"src":212,":portrait":158},"routes\u002Fta33\u002Fostrva\u002FihlaVOstrvematematikaTmyASvetla\u002Fimg08_igbgve",[10,214,216,220,231],{"id":215},"element5",[32,217,219],{"id":218},"time-required","Time required",[59,221,222,225,228],{},[62,223,224],{},"Approach to the wall ..... 55 minutes.",[62,226,227],{},"The climb, including the rappel from the needle ..... 4 hours.",[62,229,230],{},"Descent via Sedlo Ostrvy ..... 1 hour.",[22,232,233],{},"These times apply to a two-person climbing team. For a party of three, or for beginners, it may take several hours longer!",[10,235,237,241],{"id":236},"element6",[32,238,240],{"id":239},"gear","Gear",[59,242,243,246,249,252,255,258,261,264,267,270,273,276,279,282,285,288],{},[62,244,245],{},"a sit harness and chest harness",[62,247,248],{},"a helmet",[62,250,251],{},"a single 60 m rope",[62,253,254],{},"6 quickdraws",[62,256,257],{},"6 locking carabiners and HMS carabiners",[62,259,260],{},"6 cams",[62,262,263],{},"slings and a prusik cord",[62,265,266],{},"climbing shoes",[62,268,269],{},"a first-aid kit with a thermal reflective blanket",[62,271,272],{},"a headlamp",[62,274,275],{},"enough fluids",[62,277,278],{},"food for the field",[62,280,281],{},"an isotonic drink, or a thermos with warm tea, and food for the field",[62,283,284],{},"clothing to protect against cold and rain",[62,286,287],{},"a mobile phone with a charged battery",[62,289,290],{},"topos and route descriptions",[10,292,294,298,301,304,307],{"id":293},"element8",[32,295,297],{"id":296},"history","History:",[22,299,300],{},"Climbed ground-up.",[22,302,303],{},"Three pitches in the 2018 season: Ivana Jasková and Martin Murár.",[22,305,306],{},"Three pitches in the 2020 season: Zu Božiková and Martin Murár.",[22,308,309],{},"Protection installed by the team: Ivana Jasková, Zu Božiková and Martin Murár",{"title":311,"searchDepth":312,"depth":312,"links":313},"",2,[314,316,317,318,319,320,321],{"id":34,"depth":315,"text":35},3,{"id":83,"depth":315,"text":84},{"id":93,"depth":315,"text":94},{"id":197,"depth":315,"text":198},{"id":218,"depth":315,"text":219},{"id":239,"depth":315,"text":240},{"id":296,"depth":315,"text":297},"An exposed start, exposed climbing, an exposed summit and rappel.","md",false,{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002Fmatematikatmyasvetla",{"title":5,"description":322},"en\u002Froutes\u002Fta33\u002FmatematikaTmyASvetla","AXOcgyxrF-5oY1qUA9S-tMH8Dofyz7Lgo6ZlnQdk_jM",1794135403553]