Aviatika spánku a bdenia, grade VI-, Ihla v Ostrve, Zadná Ostrva 1984 m

Easily to the first ledge (B1), then joyfully up slabs, in the line of the bolts, straight up. Placing protection isn't necessary, and neither is strength. What matters most is holding your composure with dignity. This pitch makes an ideal intro for finding out how your climbing shoes get along with Tatra lichen and granite. Climbers can see each other the whole time, and it can occasionally get pretty entertaining too. Variant: the whole of Sliping Bjuty can be bypassed on the right via the gully (grade II).

From the top of Tvorivosť you get a good view of the SW face and the summit of Ihla v Ostrve. It's split roughly in half by a slightly overhanging terrace covered in dwarf pine. Aviatika... runs straight up the left (north) edge of this terrace. Its start is 50 metres below the terrace. The Matematika tmy a svetla route, grade V+, runs up the right (south) edge, and its start is 45 metres below the terrace. Near them are two routes from the summer of 1961 (N. Vondráčková, S. Zajíček, J. Zárybnický). We've left all the pitons and wooden pegs from these routes in their original state. So orthodox traditionalists can find something to enjoy here too. The dwarf-pine terrace, named Trotuár, is easily passable in both directions (grade III-). From its right edge, in an emergency, you can escape into the gully with a short (10 m) rappel (a bolt plus a crack). We continue up the gully, and in the higher sections via diagonal traverses along its left side. At the point of the traverse to the right, we find (on the left) on a grassy ledge above an island of dwarf pine, an anchor bolt next to which there's an excellent crack for placing a small cam. The start of Matematika tmy a svetla is 10 metres to the right from there and four metres higher.

Pitch 2, grade IV+, 24 m, 3 bolts

Straight from the anchor we climb a small wall, interrupted by small ledges (B1, B2). The rock here has good options for placing cams. From B3, diagonally left across a small grassy channel to the anchor, which is 4 m to the right of a small stone pine. Climbers can see each other the whole time. All three protection bolts are visible from the start, and the line is obvious thanks to them. The anchor is only visible from B3 onward.

A diagonal traverse to the right to (B1). From there up slabs, alongside a grassy channel on our left. Climbers continue on the rock from there, while fairies could dance a while on the blades of grass too (B2). From B2, left over a small tree onto a rock block, which we climb straight up to the anchor. Throughout the whole section from B3 there are excellent and varied options for placing slings. Climbers can see each other up to B3. From the upper anchor you can see the second climber. The line is easy to recognize thanks to the bolts.

Up a large diagonal crack, straight up from the anchor (B1). Slightly right up a small wall (B2) and an indistinct little pillar (B3) to a ledge, where the rock forms a clock face. From there, above us is a corner, with pitons sticking out of its right side from the Vondráčková-Zajíček married couple's ascent from August 1961 (grade V). We continue up a slab to B4, and here we find the first section where we can show off as distinct individuals, with our own climbing style. From there we can reach the anchor via a mantle, a stem, a slab move, or even an airy arête on the left. Either way, it'll stay a pleasant, non-strenuous VI-. Climbers can see each other for most of the pitch. The lead climber's individual expression at the crux, however, stays hidden from the second. The reverse doesn't hold, though - the leader gets the chance to discover the second's character. Please consider that before starting up the pitch. The line is easy to recognize thanks to the bolts.

Good cracks for cams will encourage you through the opening, harder (V+) moves off the anchor. A pleasant, low-angle section follows, with a distinct short crack and generally excellent cam-placement options. From there we'll already see B1 and B2 on the small wall above us. The rock is more solid if we keep slightly to the right of them. The anchor sits at the absolute summit of Ihla v Ostrve. Climbers see only the first four metres of each other. Contact from here on is mediated mainly through the rope.

Preparing the rappel from the Needle in Ostrva

After rappelling we move into the notch (CH) below the needle. Right at the end of the rappel, 4 metres north of the notch, above a grassy ledge, is the anchor bolt for pitch six.

Straight up, over slightly sloping rock, always in the line of the bolts. An ideal pitch for the more daring's lead-climbing debut in the Tatras. Placing your own protection isn't necessary. Both climbers can see each other. The line is completely obvious thanks to the bolts. We've found that the rock on this pitch is losing its solidity. So we take maximum care around loose blocks. No one but the belayer may stand below the climber at the start! We'll also warn hikers going up and down the standard route about it!

Straight up from the anchor. Careful - just to the left, right next to B3, there's a wedged block, 30x40 cm, that looks like a good hold. Don't touch this exhibit on display! Pitches six and seven can be combined into one. Because of the large rope drag (42 m), though, it isn't a good idea for the sleep-deprived, thirsty, and hungry. Both climbers can see each other for the first 10 metres. The line is completely obvious thanks to the bolts. The anchor sits on a balcony straight out of a dream. The summit of the needle is so close, right below us.

Stay true to yourself, choose your own line, and climb the whole thing on your own.

Left - more strenuous (grade V-):

From the anchor to a grassy terrace with a stone pine. From there over low-angle terrain to a comfortable rocky ledge (F). Up a diagonal crack (VF) to a ledge, and from there to the rappel station.

Right - more technical (grade V-):

From the anchor to a grassy terrace with a stone pine, then into a small wall, around a small light-coloured break (MF), and straight up to the rappel station. If we continue to the summit of Zadná Ostrva, we climb (5 m) slightly to the left, to the anchor (B1). Both alternatives have excellent gear-placement options. When climbing light without packs, we don't climb to the summit (via B1), but rappel (20 m and 30 m) into the notch below the needle. Knots at the ends of the rope remind us that the rappel from the dream balcony doesn't end in the notch! At its end you need to climb down about 6 metres (grade II). If you're not up for that, do one more transfer instead (20 m/15 m/27 m). We reach the summit of Zadná Ostrva via the gully through Nižná Ostrvová Bránka. If we continue to the summit of Zadná Ostrva, we climb from the rappel station five metres slightly to the left to the anchor (B1).

Along the ridge over large boulders (240 cm slings) to the summit of Zadná Ostrva.