Dospelosť, grade VI+/VII+, Galéria, Zvon, Ostrva 1984 m

From below the gully with the two flat wedged boulders visible even from a distance (the Pavlín-Kráčalík route), we climb 4 m to the right onto a distinct ledge (B1). (There are a few bolts here set in grey glue, probably meant for practice during climbing courses.) From there straight up (VI+) an expanding small wall below an overhang (B2). Then across a horizontal crack, through the overhang to the right (B3). An easier small wall follows, grade V+ (MF), leading below a slight overhang (B4). We continue slightly left, then straight up again (VI+), up a rounded little pillar (B5 - not there yet, but it will be over time :-). So place some gear, take a breath, and climb boldly straight to the anchor, or bypass it from the left.

Climbers can see each other the whole time. The line is obvious thanks to the bolts, and the anchor is comfortable.

If you enjoyed climbing here, don't miss pitches 7 and 8 on Zvon Ostrvy either.

The start is to the right of the pitch described above. The first protection is a bolt used for anchor-building practice. We continue through an overhang - the crux - (N1), and above it into a small wall (N2 and N3), below two overhangs cut by a vertical crack. Straight up it (2 x VF) to a comfortable ledge.

An alternative to the first pitch is an easy start up the gully, via the Pavlín-Kráčalík route. The start is up a pillar bordering the gully on the left (B1). Above the bolt, right into the gully, and higher up a traverse to the right, over large loose but currently stable blocks. Up a ledge to the anchor.

From the anchor, slightly left and up a slab (B1). We continue up the slab, straight (B2), below two overhangs cut by a vertical crack. Watch out for loose rocks stacked directly below the overhang. Straight up the crack (2 x VF) to a comfortable ledge. Climbers can see each other up to the final move above the overhang. The line is obvious thanks to the bolts.

From this anchor you can rappel straight to the start in a single 30-metre rappel.

Through an enormous, flat, diamond-shaped boulder (OF), we climb a crack along its right side. Two metres above the boulder is B1. We continue toward a small dwarf-pine branch (B2), then climb straight up a rounded little pillar slightly to the left of a tiny dwarf pine.

At the end of the third pitch, two loose blocks, 1.2 m x 0.6 m, lean against each other and will eventually head down into the valley. Take care that they don't do so early - say, during James's THT event! At first glance they don't look like they will.

In the three-pitch variant, the so-called "Krátka dospelosť," we climb a nice small wall from the blocks to the right, 6 m, to the anchor. From there you can either rappel to Anchor 2, or continue to the gully (7 m) from Nižná Ostrvová Bránka.

If we plan to keep climbing, though, we pull left from the blocks, onto a comfortable anchor ledge, where we find two cemented rebar rings, installed long ago by the Tatra Mountain Rescue Service.

Climbers can see each other for the first 20 metres. The bolts need to be looked for a bit more carefully, but they're there. Once "discovered," the line is easy to read. A small dwarf-pine branch helps with that too.

A traverse left over dwarf pines along grassy ledges, first slightly down (5 m), then diagonally up, across exceptionally solid rock with large cracks. At the top of a crack-chimney is the fourth anchor, with two Mammut pitons (one also has a ring) from the Pavlín-Kráčalík route.

The anchor is visible from the rebar rings. Climbers can see each other.

Up a bulging slab to a small ledge (F), first slightly left (N1, AliNina), then slightly right (S1), then diagonally left to a rock ledge. A traverse (2.5 m), then a traverse along the ledge. From there up a pillar (S2), later through a corner (N2) to the anchor on two pitons.

Finding the line here takes a bit of experience. The anchor isn't visible, but climbers can see each other the whole time.

From the anchor we move (7 m) onto a pleasant terrace with dwarf pines and young stone pines (grade II).

To the right, around the trees. The scent of conifers and mountain flowers. Close your chalk bag tightly so pine needles don't fall in. Dwarf-pine sap can substitute for chalk's grip-enhancing effect.

Up compact, cascade-shaped rock, first from the left, then straight (6 m). From there, up the top of a chimney with wedged stones, and over low-angle terrain to a ledge, above which is a corner (MF). First through the corner, then along a distinct crack (N1), shaped like the right half of the letter "D" (F), to an anchor on two pitons, connected by chains.

Climbers can see each other only partially. From the crack onward, the line is already clear.

From the notch on the descent path from Galéria (by the chain), looking southeast, we see a compact wall about 60 metres tall - Zvon Ostrvy. Its summit ends in a right-angled, bent boulder.

We continue in the direction the chain indicates, straight up a small wall, and then five metres down, onto a little path that fades into the dwarf pines. From there, by a traverse (a second chain), into the gully leading all the way to Nižná Ostrvová Bránka. At the end of the second chain we don't continue left down the gully, but traverse right (grade I) - heading south below the wall of Zvon Ostrvy, into a small notch below Zvon. The Dospelosť route continues from the boulder in the notch, where a bolt sits.

Left: pitch 1 of Mladosť. Right: pitch 7 of Dospelosť

From the anchor, the visible line of ascent runs up a diagonal double crack (the left one wider, the right one narrower), running from left to right, below a striking overhang. On the right, on the slab, level with the overhang, is the first bolt - though it isn't visible from below.

From the anchor (B1), up a large boulder, 5 m, slightly right, over small cascades. Then further diagonally right, to a grassy little channel (SL). A high step across it, and from there via the double crack (F), into a recess, 5 m, roughly 6 m below a large overhang shaped like a truncated pyramid, grade V. We continue on good holds and footholds the whole time. Diagonally up and right across an arête, onto a slightly low-angle, enormous slab (B1, grade V), forming the dominant lower part of the central wall. Above us (to the right of the overhang) is a corner with two bolts (not visible from the start). Straight up the corner, grade VI+ (VI- A0), to a grassy ledge with the anchor.

The first half of the line (with no bolts) takes some experience to recognize. Climbers can see each other only up until the lead climber disappears around the arête below the overhang. In the second half of the pitch, they need to be able to feel each other through the rope.

Neither the anchor nor any bolts are visible from the start.

At the crux corner there's a bolt with a horizontal top edge. In case of insurmountable climbing difficulties, this lets you stand on the bolt (A0) and reach the anchor more easily (VI- A0).

TOPR heroes Maciej Mikiewicz and Szymon Zieliński at the start of the eighth pitch

Right above the anchor begins a large corner. We don't climb the corner, but a small wall to the right of the anchor (B1, grade V+), straight up 8 m (F), to a sharp arête. Across the arête diagonally right. Above us is a narrow corner, B2. Up it boldly, 6 m (grade VI, B3), onto an airy slab (grade VI+). From there, across three roof-like overhangs and up through a corner too (grade VI+), to the summit of Zvon, formed by a right-angled, bent boulder.

The second half of the line takes some experience to recognize. Climbers can see each other at the start, then a little at the arête, and then only again at the very end below the summit. In the second half of the pitch, they need to be able to feel each other through the rope.

Neither the anchor nor any bolts, other than the first protection point, are visible from the start. At the crux spots, bolts with a horizontal top edge are installed. In case of insurmountable climbing difficulties, this lets you stand on the bolt (A0) and, with a bit of luck, reach the anchor.

Marci Kuníková on the eighth pitch of Dospelosť

From the summit of Zvon Ostrvy you can comfortably rappel with two rappels (27 and 30 m) into the notch below Zvon, from where you can continue climbing the other six routes there. From there you can also descend on walking terrain (grade CH, I, II) all the way to Popradské pleso.

From the summit of Zvon we first descend a little (4 m), then continue over boulders, right onto the ridgeline (CH). From there straight along the ridge (N1). Through the system of chimneys and cracks mentioned above, we climb straight to its summit (N2 with a maillon). From there we rappel to the base of the wall (60 m), or continue along the ridge and downclimb (4 m, N3) off it at the end.

A distinct ridge that's impossible to miss. Climbers can see each other almost the whole time.

The line is obvious thanks to the pitons. Climbers can see each other the whole time. The anchors are two pitons, not connected by a chain.

The line is obvious thanks to the pitons. Climbers can see each other the whole time. The anchors are two pitons, not connected by a chain.

The line is obvious thanks to the pitons. Climbers can see each other the whole time. The final pitch's anchor is the last protection piton, with a ring, in a small wall below a ledge, at the top of the Head. When returning by the same route, the best option is to thread the rope through the ring and be lowered to the anchor - a backup piece of protection is still missing there. A return from the "Head" is also possible by a double-rope rappel onto the dwarf-pine slope below the wall. From there, on walking terrain through the dwarf pines, to the summit of Zvon, and then a rappel into the notch below Zvon.

After the Head, three more pitches of easier climbing follow, to the summit of Prostredná Ostrva. From there you can cross to Sedlo Ostrvy and then take the main trail to Popradské pleso.