Hviezdolet, grade V+ (with variants at grade VI- and VI), Vysoká 2547 m
A dance alongside Lietavice, linking together the best of this part of the Tatra galaxy
Characteristics
A route with amazing rock and excellent protection
The first pitch is water-worn, light-coloured granite; the second, holy-water-font-like pockets leading through a small overhang and a slab. Every anchor sits on two stainless-steel bolts connected by a chain. It crosses the line of Lietavice on the first pitch, only to rejoin it at the third anchor. The fourth and fifth pitches continue together with it. From the fifth anchor, Hviezdolet continues independently via a traverse to the right (the sixth pitch), before its seventh pitch enters the interesting final slab.
A grade-five route where you can also get on first-name terms with grade six
We've protected the route so that two key pitches also allow harder variants at grade VI. The second climber can choose whichever variant suits them, regardless of what the lead climber chose, and vice versa. Bolts sit everywhere they're needed. But on four pitches, none are needed at all! Thanks to the excellent options for placing your own protection, we've only placed anchors on those.
If you're not sure whether you're ready to pilot Hviezdolet, go "lead" Rafael on Anjelský hang first. Leading Gabriel or Michael on-sight opens the door to the grade-six variant too. You can rappel the whole route without complications.
New options for experienced climbers
The Hviezdolet route on Vysoká allows:
- climbing "light," with only approach shoes on your harness, or even without them at all - in that case, climbing gear can be left at the anchor after finishing the seventh pitch, and the summit reached on foot
- taking on grade six with the safe and still beautiful option of changing your mind
- traversing two summits after the pillar climb, then returning via the standard route to the starting point above Dračie sedlo
- a new variant of the Crown of Vysoká (Dračí štít, both summits of Vysoká, and Ťažký štít), enriched with climbing on rock of exceptional quality and beauty
- a mountaineering crossing of two valleys at your preferred difficulty (via Sedlo Kohútik, an interesting chain-secured descent leads into Kotlinka pod Váhou)
- climbing two Tatra routes in one day with no need to relocate
- a rappel descent from Vyšné Dračie sedlo
Besides Vysoká, it's also a good alternative approach to routes on the Dračí štít massif.
Hviezdolet is not suitable for climbing teams without mountaineering experience!
If you lack the experience, bring a climbing instructor, an experienced climbing friend, or a mountain guide for this pillar.
Approach to Pilier Lietavíc via Zlomisková dolina (2:20 h):
The simplest way to reach Pilier Lietavíc is via Zlomisková dolina. From Popradské pleso we follow the main trail toward Sedlo v Ostrve. After about three minutes, at the warning sign prohibiting entry, we turn left into Zlomisková dolina. Alongside the roaring Ľadový potok stream we first cross a small concrete reservoir, then a wooden footbridge, and then walk through a grove of stone pines that look like giant bonsai trees.
Above the first slope - by now we're well above the treeline - on a meadow often not just in bloom but also boggy, called Zlomisková roveň, we first continue toward Ľadové pleso. If, at the start of Zlomisková roveň, right past the top of the slope, we look at Vysoká, the less prominent Pilier Lietavíc sits directly below its summit's fall line.
From there we continue on nearly level ground along the left side of the stream. Roughly halfway across the meadow we turn left, following Rumanov potok. We climb more steeply through the second slope toward Dračie sedlo. Rumanov potok disappears into the rocky moraine here. There are several trails toward Dračie sedlo from here. It's best to stay slightly to the right, the same way as for the approach to Ošarpance. We don't go into Dračie sedlo, and we don't cross it either. We stay on the south flank of the mountain the whole time. High above the notch, at roughly 2280 m, is the base of a triangular, water-worn wall of light-coloured granite, below which a snowfield sits all summer long.
Both climbs run up this wall. Opposite our wall, the start is decorated by two merging Dragon Heads, and to the southeast by the three towers of Ošarpance. It's a gorgeous spot.
A bergschrund lines the base of the wall roughly until mid-August. Crossing it may require crampons and an ice axe.
The routes' bolts are visible from the start. Hviezdolet runs straight up the small wall on the right, Lietavice up a low-angle ramp on the left. At the bottom they're about 9 metres apart. The routes' first pitches cross each other higher up.
At the start below the wall, climbers are often sheltered from the wind. On sunny days the rock warms up and creates an oven-like effect. Don't let that tempt you, though - the felt temperature higher up the pillar and at the summit tends to be colder. At least a hardshell windbreaker can come in handy even in the warmest summer.
Route description
Pitch 1, grade V/V+, 31 m, 4 bolts
The first three bolts in the wall are visible from the start. The opening four metres follow a crack (nut sizes 3 to 5), then, along indicated cascades (grade V), slightly left (B1 at 9 m). We continue up a small crack in a corner (nut size 0.5) to B2. From there you can see, to the left, the first bolt of Lietavice. If we were to climb to it across horizontal ripples (V), we'd rob ourselves of the beautiful climbing moves of Hviezdolet's first pitch. So we don't climb left, but continue another 9 m straight up the corner, over horizontal ripples and a crack (grade V) with excellent placement options for micro-cams, to B3. Then another 5 m up a crack and ripples, with a short section of grade V+, to B4, and from there diagonally left onto low-angle ground (grade III). The bolt directly above us belongs to the Lietavice route. We don't clip it, but climb below it on easier terrain to the left, to the anchor (grade III). On the diagram it looks as though we go straight ahead, or slightly right - in reality, above B4 we climb left! Don't hang directly off the anchor - extend it (4 m) so you can stand comfortably on a comfortable ledge below it. An overhang above us shelters us from potential rockfall.
Throughout the pitch, the granite is light-coloured and completely clean, like Gustav Vigeland's sculptures. Climbers can see each other up to the final section, where the lead climber disappears from the belayer's view. The anchor, set to the left behind the arête, isn't visible from the start.
Pitch 2, grade V+ (variants at grade VI- and VI), 32 m, 7 bolts
We continue 7 m up a small wall, over pockets resembling holy-water fonts, (B1) up to an overhang (V-). B2 is in the overhang, not visible from the anchor. We climb through the overhang (V+) and traverse 4 m diagonally left to a slab with an arête and a chimney on the left. Below the arête you can place a medium cam in a diagonal crack, though it needs to be extended. From there we have three options. The first is straight up the arête through B3 and B4 (VI-). The second is a harder alternative up the slab to the right of B3 and B4 (VI). Above B3 you can place a good micro-cam there (a blue BD). The easiest variant (V+) uses the chimney to the left of the arête. Between B3 and B4, in the chimney, you can place a small cam, though this too needs extending. In this part of the climb, the second climber can choose whichever variant suits them, regardless of what the lead climber chose, and vice versa. From the top of the slab we cross left over the chimney, B5, and continue via its left side, B6, out of the chimney (V). From there we proceed straight up a crack, grade IV+ (nut size 3), to B7. 3 m above B7 there's an excellent flake for a sling. Here we notice the scar left by a missing boulder, and climb through it 7 m to a comfortable anchor.
Below us, Dračie pleso shines emerald-green. Down to the right are the summits of Ošarpance. To the left, the slabs of Človečina parade past. From here it's already clear how Dračí hrebeň divides the two valleys. From this anchor, at the top of the pillar, you can see the "starflight capsule's little window," resembling an eye.
Climbers are always in sight of each other. Anyone who knows where to look can spot Anchor 2 from Anchor 1.
Pitch 3, grade III-, 20 m
We walk straight up cascades to the anchor, which sits about 6 m above a distinct grassy ledge. Anchor 3 is visible from Anchor 2. Climbers can see each other.
Pitch 4, grade IV+, 27 m, 1 piton
We climb straight up 3 m. Here, in the rock, in a grassy channel, is a stainless-steel piton. Right above the piton we make a high step to the right across the channel and pull diagonally up toward the arête of the pillar the whole time.
We continue up small walls broken up by cracks and tiny cascades. There are excellent options there for placing cams and slings. The anchor sits on a comfortable ledge with a gorgeous view. Anchor 4 is visible from Anchor 3. Climbers can see each other. Watch out for loose rocks while climbing - your partner is below you at the anchor!
Pitch 5, grade IV-, 30 m
We continue straight up the ridge of the pillar over boulders into a little notch (II+). Excellent protection options (running the rope between rock blocks, or long slings). From there, 7 m up a small wall to the anchor (IV-). In these final metres, gear-placement options are weaker, but the climbing is easy. Anchor 5 is visible from Anchor 4, and climbers can see each other.
Pitch 6, grade I/II with one move of III-, 30 m, 4 bolts
Right from the anchor we traverse 6 m to the right through a gap formed by a pointed boulder. Past the boulder (B1) we downclimb three metres to B2 (III-). We've left the pillar. We're now in the wide part of the gully connecting Vysoká with Dračí štít. We walk (I) along a diagonally rising traverse (B3) to the fourth bolt, extend it with a 120 cm sling around the boulder above it, and build the anchor. The terrain is easy (walking), but full of loose rocks! Here the bolts serve mainly a navigational function.
Climbers can't see each other once past the gap. Anchor 6 isn't visible from Anchor 5. In the gully, it helps with route-finding if you manage to find all four bolts.
Never enter the gully if a storm is threatening! Leaving the pillar is also worth considering in reduced visibility, or if there are climbers on the ridge between Dračí štít and Vysoká - falling rocks usually fly straight down the gully.
Pitch 7, grade IV+ (variants at grade V+ and VI), 30 m
We first climb easily from B4, twelve metres straight up (grade III), to a large but slightly "low-angle" slab. Watch out for loose blocks! From there we have three options. The first (grade VI) is to climb the slab, split by a crack, straight up. The second (grade V+) is up and slightly right to its corner. The third, least attractive (grade IV+), is to climb the grassy slab diagonally to the right. Below the top of the slab we traverse along a horizontal crack, 5 metres to the left, to the anchor.
There are numerous loose rocks in the left part of the slab, so always climb its right side! Climbers can see each other the whole time. Anchor 7 isn't visible from Anchor 6.
We're planning to add two or three protection bolts to this pitch in the future.
From there, walking terrain to the southeast summit of Vysoká, grade I, 35 minutes
Here the pillar stops being distinct and fades into the south flank. We continue, staying to the south, following the pillar's features the whole way. We've marked the terrain with cairns.
Descent via the pillar:
A) By rappel
When the central gully is filled with snow, and also if there's a risk of storms or precipitation, it's best to rappel the ascent route. When rappelling in good weather, the optimal option is to rappel from Hviezdolet's seventh anchor down the slab, 30 m, and then traverse 20 m (grade I), descending gently, to Lietavice's fifth anchor. The traverse is protected by four bolts. Never rappel this way if there are people in Vyšné Dračie sedlo, or in rain or a storm! The reason is the risk of falling rocks. From the fifth anchor we continue rappelling down Lietavice's individual pitches. Pay close attention to rope length, especially on the fifth pitch - a sixty-metre rope reaches exactly there. Don't forget knots at the ends of the rope!
B) By downclimbing
A possible alternative to rappelling is a traverse across a rock ledge into the "standard route." This ledge sits above the end of the seventh pitch. From there we can continue down the central gully.
The crossing from the summit to Štrbina pod Vysokou is best done on the north side from the SE summit. A distinct diagonal ledge leads us from there above Štrbina itself, which caps the central gully. At this spot, above the notch, guides have installed one piton. From the notch, iron rungs and chains lead to the NW summit. It holds the oldest surviving summit cross in the Tatras.
Time required
- Approach to the wall from Popradské pleso: 2 hours 20 minutes
- The climb: 3 hours 30 minutes
- Descent and rappel to the base of the wall: 2 hours
- Descent to Popradské pleso: 2 hours
- Total: roughly 10 hours, plus the trip to Popradské pleso and back
These times apply to a two-person climbing team. For a party of three, or for beginners, it may take several hours longer!
Gear
- a sit harness and chest harness
- a helmet
- a single 60 m rope
- 8 quickdraws
- 6 slings (120, 180, and 240 cm) with carabiners
- 6 locking carabiners and 2 HMS carabiners
- a belay/rappel device for each climber (for example a Gigi or a Jul)
- 8 cams - basic as well as tiny sizes, or nuts with a nut tool
- comfortable climbing shoes or approach shoes
- a first-aid kit with a thermal reflective blanket
- a headlamp
- a thermos with warm tea
- food for the field
- clothing to protect against cold and rain
- a mobile phone with a charged battery
- a topo with a route description
- crampons and an ice axe (early in summer)
History
The Matterhorn is the symbol of the Alps; the twin-summited Ushba is the icon of the Caucasus. Neither is the tallest peak in its range. The secret of their charm lies in what they evoke in the human soul. I've come to know those peaks in something like the way climber and geographer Mór Déchy de Marosdécse came to know them at the end of the nineteenth century. Not every mountain range in the world has a peak of that character, but here in the Slovak Tatras we have both of those archetypes represented. Kriváň and Vysoká embody them. Both are symbols - they simply can't be ignored. Kriváň is made accessible by hiking trails, which alone represent enough of a challenge for most visitors to the Tatras. Vysoká, with no built hiking trail, demands a bit more personal grit. Even here, though, the rule can hold: "The more you give, the more you get." Its two summits are (down to a few centimetres) the same elevation, and rank among the ten highest in the Tatras. Vysoká is captivating from every angle and every direction. In winter conditions it lures ski mountaineers with its descent lines from the south, and climbers with ascents from the north. In summer conditions, high-mountain hikers can pay their respects via Sedlo Kohútik, while ridge climbers can honour it with a traverse of the four summits forming its imagined crown.
We opened Pilier Lietavíc to mark the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of Vysoká. The initiator of that event was, at the time, none other than Mór Déchy. He travelled to the Tatras from Buda, climbed Gerlach, and rounded out his overview of our highest mountains. On that basis he then convinced (probably with some help from money too) the guides Ján Ruman-Driečny and Martin Spitzkopf that his line up Vysoká was feasible. The guides, in fact, considered the climb impossible and life-threatening. Déchy wasn't discouraged. In planning the tour he drew on his experience from the Alps. He waited for a spell of favourable weather, and after a first day spent in the valley, chose a bivouac spot. When needed, he patiently explained to the guides the benefits of using a climbing rope, and despite their protests, tied them into it at the right moment. Above all thanks to his determination and knowledge, this Jewish-Slovak-German team finally reached both summits of this imposing peak. It happened on Thursday, 3 September 1874. Even though they reached the second summit at only twenty past eight in the morning, they celebrated the success with champagne. Under a stone cairn they placed a note about the first ascent in an envelope of waterproofed cloth. The pop of their champagne on the summit of Vysoká confirmed that the first era of climbing in the Tatras had begun. It foreshadowed much of what still holds true in the mountains today. I don't mean the bribery and the alcohol. In Mór Déchy's strategy for this ascent, I mean faith in your own strength instead of relying on someone else, patience in waiting for the right conditions, the increased safety that comes from climbing education and modern gear, and a beneficial form of international cooperation.
Today, dozens of climbing routes lead to the summit of Vysoká, and numerous ski-mountaineering descents lead down from it. It looks as though every gully, pillar, and wall already has its discoverers. And yet, until recently, a bergschrund guarded one of the peak's two south pillars. Its flanks were occasionally used for rappelling down in winter conditions, but it seemed as though the pillar itself was still waiting for the right alignment of the stars.
Pilier Lietavíc
We climbed the first route up this pillar on Thursday, 13 August 2015, with Zuzka Božiková. This time of year is when the Perseid meteor shower peaks. As we descended Zlomisková dolina at night, with the universe demonstrating its omnipotence, the route got the name Lietavice (Shooting Stars). So instead of water, the pillar was baptized by burning stars. It's said that when a person sees a star fall - since that's what people sometimes call meteors - they can make a wish. I've always wished everyone a safe return. We're connected to the stars by fate, but only in a way that doesn't cost us our freedom. Each of us can still do something on our own. What if the whole universe was set in motion by just one seemingly tiny movement? I sensed I'd have to come back to the pillar with heavy gear. The sign that the right moment had come arrived a few years later, in the form of questions from Peter Hrčka. We got to work, and Peter helped with the labour. Martin Zbuška and Branč Stavný also lent a hand.
While re-equipping the route, I noticed one more beautiful line right next door, to the left of Lietavice. We couldn't resist. We gradually climbed it, and it got the name Hviezdolet. Years have passed since then. During that time I climbed it many times, usually with a drill and other gear too, always meaning to finally finish opening both routes. We patiently worked on it whenever we could. But I always discovered a few more details. We couldn't finish it until the right alignment of the stars arrived. The cosmic clock keeps precise time. It took a century and a half from the moment the first people touched the summit of Vysoká. Only now, at the time of this anniversary, can I write with a peaceful mind that our work on Pilier Lietavíc is done. Well, it looks like in this jubilee year, it'll be worth packing not just champagne, but also a rope and climbing shoes, on the way to the summit of Vysoká.
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